You know those ideas that sound good at the time but then your experience turns out to be NOTHING like you imagined? An idea that you believe, “We got this”— then you realize you don’t? Having not done a big hike in nine years, Chief and I decided to try the Grand Canyon Rim2Rim hike in one day. Just to be clear, hikers can attempt this 21-mile hike in multiple days but Chief was adamant that we could do it in one. We should have thought again.
Our hike began at 2:30 AM on May 24 when we called a taxi to shuttle us to the South Kaibab trailhead on the south rim. We had spent a restless night in our tent at Mather Campground and left our car and tent at the site until our return. (We did plan enough to leave a note in our car stating we were going to hike the Rim2Rim and a copy of our last will and testament.) The taxi driver arrived later and said we were his first fare for the morning (no kidding) but got us to the trailhead, dropping us off in the dark and sending us off with a “Good luck”. We strapped on our headlamps, laced up hiking shoes and secured gear in our daypacks. We had no idea what to expect but acted confidently as we showed about five others hikers where the trail began.
The moon was full at 3:30 AM and provided a bit of light as we began the descent into the GC. It was eerily quiet except for footsteps on the dry ground. I remember seeing the dust in the light of my headlamp and smelling the dry dirt coming from Chief’s steps ahead of me. The temperature was 53 degrees and we were dressed in layers, prepared for the range of heat and cold we would experience. Our first goal was to hike seven miles, descend approximately 4,700’, cross the Colorado River and get to Phantom Ranch in the bottom of the canyon. That would later prove to be the easy part…

By 4:30 AM glimpses of sunlight began to appear over the canyon walls and we could see just how steep the trail was becoming. Chief continuously cautioned for us to stay on the wall side of the trail. A slip could be devastating as we previously heard the GC has an average of 15 individuals fall to their death per year. At 5:00 AM a mule trail carrying supplies passed us on the trail. We assume it was carrying supplies to Phantom Ranch as there is no way to reach the ranch by vehicle. As you can imagine, mules leave manure on the trail so hikers do have to use quick footwork to avoid those trail apples. By this time there were also many hikers and runners on the South Kaibab. Most all were younger than us so we gladly allowed them to pass. There were even some hikers who were attempting a Rim2Rim2Rim hike. You guessed it! They were trekking to the north rim only to turn around and hike or run back to the south rim.

By 8:00 AM, Chief and I arrived at the footbridge to cross over the Colorado River. The river is a beautiful shade of green and we were able to see rafters taking a trip down the river. We heard the thump, thump, thump of a helicopter and a short walk around the bend brought us to Phantom Ranch. The helicopter was lowering supplies as Phantom Ranch is a respite for hikers and a place to spend the night and have dinner while on their journey. They serve lemonade and iced tea to hikers and we joined dozens of others for an hour break with a cold drink. There is no cellular service in the canyon but we purchased postcards and addressed that the ranch will mail out via mule train! Refreshed and well hydrated, we were ready for our next 14 miles to the North Rim of the canyon, or so we believed…