Preparing for a Grand Canyon Rim2Rim hike consists of physical, as well as mental training. Chief and I spent months walking in the Florida heat, working up to 11-12 miles on long days. We talked to, read about, and researched about hikers who successfully completed a Rim2Rim hike. Unfortunately we were unable to get much of an elevation workout since our Florida home is about three feet above sea level. We were relegated to going up and down stairs and hiking up a small man made bird lookout at the Celery Fields park. Our most important preparation, however, was in prayer. Don’t make the mistake of thinking we have a stellar prayer life—we struggle how to pray, forget to pray, and fail like anyone else. But we do have a group of prayer warrior friends and family who lift us up, who asked for our protection, provision, peace and breath. God knew the struggle of hiking the Grand Canyon would be real for us.

When we left Phantom Ranch at 9:00 AM on May 24, we had already hiked the seven miles down the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. Our next goal was the middle seven miles to the Cottonwood Campground. Chief wanted to hike as quickly as we could since the first part of North Kaibab trail is partially shaded in the morning. Known as “The Box”, the trail lies between huge canyon walls and runs alongside the Bright Angel Creek. Any shade was wonderful but by 11:00 AM temperatures were climbing rapidly to 90+ degrees. The bottom of the canyon is often 20-30 degrees hotter than the South Rim. By noon, finding shade was harder than finding an honest politician. We stayed well hydrated but our walking pace slowed to just over one mile per hour in the direct sun and stifling heat. Hikers were stopping to rest in any tiny piece of shade—from a rock, a small shrub, or another hiker. We spent time looking ahead for a small tree, only to find four hikers already huddled underneath. Our large brimmed hats and shirts were dripping with sweat. The hardest part of this section was seeing the chilly water of the Bright Angel Creek rushing close by but unable to reach it due to large boulders or the high elevation. Chief kept saying there would be a place ahead to access the creek. I was too parched to even ask how far. Thankfully he was right. Up ahead we saw a point to access the creek waters. No fewer than twenty hikers were stopped, dunking themselves and clothing into the cool water. Somehow I found the energy to throw off my backpack and run ankle deep into the refreshing water. I submerged my bandana, raised it up and let the water flow over my head, thanking God I was still conscious. I totally soaked my hat, shirt, and pants. Wrapping that cold bandana around my neck provided relief for a short while. Chief wasn’t quite as exuberant but did wet his bandana. We took a short break and talked to a young Rim2Rim hiker who once lived in Ohio. He came right out and asked us how old we were. He was shocked to hear mid-60s and said most people that age didn’t attempt this type of a hike. Good thing we have people praying for us!

The climb from Phantom Ranch toward Cottonwood Campground was about a 1,500’ increase in elevation. The extreme heat made the hike up even more challenging. Many hikers were failing and some had run out of water. Other hikers were trying to assist those with filtering water and providing salty snacks. We stopped at one point for a rest with another group before a large ascent. One hiker said to take any gel packets now if you have them. Chief and I had saved two gels each and took them. The next mile to Cottonwood was strenuous but we finally arrived at 3:00 PM. I slumped over on my backpack and unintentionally fell asleep for a short nap. When I awoke, Chief apologized for suggesting the Rim2Rim hike. He admitted it wasn’t a good idea and he felt he had forced me into the challenge. I told him I could have said no, and probably should have said no, but I didn’t. So here we were. Fourteen miles hiked in nearly twelve hours wasn’t a good pace. We were both exhausted with nearly seven miles of brutal climbing to go. The worst was yet to come…

Check back for Part 3…

You know those ideas that sound good at the time but then your experience turns out to be NOTHING like you imagined? An idea that you believe, “We got this”— then you realize you don’t? Having not done a big hike in nine years, Chief and I decided to try the Grand Canyon Rim2Rim hike in one day. Just to be clear, hikers can attempt this 21-mile hike in multiple days but Chief was adamant that we could do it in one. We should have thought again.
Our hike began at 2:30 AM on May 24 when we called a taxi to shuttle us to the South Kaibab trailhead on the south rim. We had spent a restless night in our tent at Mather Campground and left our car and tent at the site until our return. (We did plan enough to leave a note in our car stating we were going to hike the Rim2Rim and a copy of our last will and testament.) The taxi driver arrived later and said we were his first fare for the morning (no kidding) but got us to the trailhead, dropping us off in the dark and sending us off with a “Good luck”. We strapped on our headlamps, laced up hiking shoes and secured gear in our daypacks. We had no idea what to expect but acted confidently as we showed about five others hikers where the trail began.
The moon was full at 3:30 AM and provided a bit of light as we began the descent into the GC. It was eerily quiet except for footsteps on the dry ground. I remember seeing the dust in the light of my headlamp and smelling the dry dirt coming from Chief’s steps ahead of me. The temperature was 53 degrees and we were dressed in layers, prepared for the range of heat and cold we would experience. Our first goal was to hike seven miles, descend approximately 4,700’, cross the Colorado River and get to Phantom Ranch in the bottom of the canyon. That would later prove to be the easy part…

By 4:30 AM glimpses of sunlight began to appear over the canyon walls and we could see just how steep the trail was becoming. Chief continuously cautioned for us to stay on the wall side of the trail. A slip could be devastating as we previously heard the GC has an average of 15 individuals fall to their death per year. At 5:00 AM a mule trail carrying supplies passed us on the trail. We assume it was carrying supplies to Phantom Ranch as there is no way to reach the ranch by vehicle. As you can imagine, mules leave manure on the trail so hikers do have to use quick footwork to avoid those trail apples. By this time there were also many hikers and runners on the South Kaibab. Most all were younger than us so we gladly allowed them to pass. There were even some hikers who were attempting a Rim2Rim2Rim hike. You guessed it! They were trekking to the north rim only to turn around and hike or run back to the south rim.

By 8:00 AM, Chief and I arrived at the footbridge to cross over the Colorado River. The river is a beautiful shade of green and we were able to see rafters taking a trip down the river. We heard the thump, thump, thump of a helicopter and a short walk around the bend brought us to Phantom Ranch. The helicopter was lowering supplies as Phantom Ranch is a respite for hikers and a place to spend the night and have dinner while on their journey. They serve lemonade and iced tea to hikers and we joined dozens of others for an hour break with a cold drink. There is no cellular service in the canyon but we purchased postcards and addressed that the ranch will mail out via mule train! Refreshed and well hydrated, we were ready for our next 14 miles to the North Rim of the canyon, or so we believed…